GREENLAND
THE NANSEN WAY
The special: east to west, August–September
NANSEN'S CHOICE
If you want a Greenland crossing that stands apart, this is it. Longer, harder, more varied — a rarely travelled route, with a real historic thread running through it.
This crossing starts where Nansen meant to start in 1888, and ends where he didn't mean to end. On the way we pass DYE III, not the DYE II that most other crossings visit. And the best part comes last: following Nansen's footsteps down the Austmannadalen, on foot, to the place his team finally reached the sea.
WHY CHOOSE THIS WAY
East to west in the fall is where polar exploration started. Nansen crossed this way in 1888, and it still stands as one of the most important ski expeditions in history. It's harder and more technical than the standard crossing — so if you've already done the Inland Ice in the fall, you're ready for it.
The route starts with the crevassed eastern icefall up from Isortoq. Well up on the plateau we turn west-south-west for the rarely visited DYE III, pick up Nansen's line, finish the plateau, and drop into the western icefall he described in On Ski Across Greenland.
We reach land at the same place Nansen and his team did, then follow the increasingly green Austmannadalen down towards the fjord. On the way we light bonfires, catch fish, and round the trip off properly. Down by the water, a boat takes us out to Nuuk — Godthåb, as it was called when Nansen arrived.
Be clear-eyed about it: the icefalls, the vast plains, the altitude you don't expect, and the changeable, often severe conditions make this a formidable task. It rewards you with experience, teamwork, and maybe even a bit of order tidied up inside yourself — but it's only for the dedicated, who put in the required training and planning and have an approved skill base.
Meet-up: August 8th 2027
Price: € 23 000
Duration: 34+ days (approx 34 to 36 on the ice)
Team: 1 leader and max 6 participants
Deposit: € 1 800
Route: Tasiilaq / Isortoq (east) to Nuuk (west) — full coast to coast
EXPEDITION SUMMARY
EXPEDITION DETAILS
This is a different challenge. It's the same season Nansen and his men fought through to be first across the big unknown white. He chose the east coast as the start not for the conditions, but because with so few inhabitants there, turning back and overwintering was no option. "The West Coast or Death," they said — and they made it.
Anyone crossing at this time of year comes to understand the task, the effort, and what the 1888 pioneers actually did. So if you're that bit more adventurous, this is your time to go.
We meet in Tasiilaq in mid-August and set off by boat two days later towards Isortoq, camping right under the icecap. The next morning we start, and for the next days we play chess with the icefall — rivers and streams first, then rolling ice like a rough sea frozen mid-swell, then the big crevasses guarding the snowfields above. This part is hard, and a satisfying challenge.
Once we're up on good snow, the distances open out as we gain altitude. The wind tries to push us back, and near the Summit at around 2 500–2 600 m it comes from every direction — the autumn lows hitting Greenland from Canada on one side, the storms between Iceland and Greenland on the other. It sharpens you, and you learn to go with it and make the most of the good days.
After about three weeks, on our west-south-west course, we pass DYE III. The plateau is slowly taking it over; from a distance only the radar shows — a big white ball sitting on the snow. It's a goofy building, hard to get into, but an adventure in itself, and far less visited than the DYE II most trips pass.
The first cold usually sets in late August. The melt slows, the big rivers shrink to streams, and the lakes on the plateau freeze over — hopefully. Closing on the west coast we meet the first signs of the summer melt. The terrain drops, the surface gets more sculpted, and by the time we reach the icefall the gullies left by meltwater rivers make us work for every metre. Lower down come riverbeds and wild ice, testing detours and big jumps. Spirits need to be high here — this work is not for the soft.
Sometimes progress drops to a single kilometre in several hours. But with land in sight, that spurs us on.
Stepping off the ice, we're in awe of Nansen and his team, who landed here more than 130 years ago. It's mid-September — the end of the season, as the Inland Ice goes into no-go mode for the winter.
Then a new part begins. We swap heavy ski boots for light sneakers, leave most of the equipment behind, and start a three-day trek down the Austmannadalen. Moraine gives way to vegetation as we follow a stream towards the sea. The fishing rod comes out, dinner is cooked on a real bonfire, and the smells, the quiet and the changing landscape make these fine days.
After a last night at Nansen's Campsite, we reach the hunter's camp by the fjord — about as close to the real Greenland as you get. Then the boat arrives and brings us to Nuuk, for the first beer, the first shower, and a proper celebration meal. Well earned: you'll have completed a full Greenland crossing, coast to coast. Most others do only the icecap.
ROUTE
Day −3 and −2: Travelling via Iceland (at least for those coming from the east), we meet in Tasiilaq, the picturesque "capital" of Greenland's east coast. Once everyone's together, we head straight for the store. The rest is packing and preparing — but not without a last served meal in a restaurant before we head for the ice.
Day −1: The morning is final preparation, and changing into the expedition clothing that stays on for the next four weeks and more. The clean "civilian" clothes go in the mail, to be sent to the other side. After lunch, we board a small boat for the Isortoq area — a fine passage past icebergs. Depending on the ice, we reach the fjord inside Isortoq (a tiny, authentic hunting and fishing village) by early evening, carry everything up to a local cabin, and plan to stay the night. We say plan — storms or local festivities have been known to make it uninhabitable.
Day 1: We set off early, on foot over hard, icy ground. The first part is easy; later the ice roughens as we climb. How far we get is impossible to plan: a snowy winter and cold summer can fill the crevasses, while heavy melt can leave huge crevasses, melt rivers, even crevasses full of water. Either way it's a fine game of chess against a cunning opponent called Mother Earth — and wild, bumpy ground that tests stamina and mindset.
Day 2–3 (approx): We work through the field with the biggest crevasses, zigzagging to find the safest line. On the far side, the skis usually start earning their keep and we make real progress.
Day 4–9: Even clear of the lower icefall, it's hard work. We gain altitude fast on the big rolling hills, with usually good ski conditions. The coastal zone falls behind, the chance of rain drops as the polar climate takes over, and we barely notice the last mountains sink under the horizon as we fix on the west and the plains ahead. We head into the katabatic wind zone and get little rest until the land eases out. Having reached a safe altitude (Day 5–6), we leave the standard route and turn gradually west, then west-south-west, for DYE III.
After some 10 days the wind fluctuates and the weather hesitates as we near the Summit — a long, rounded ridge running south–north up Greenland. In the fall, the lows coming off Canada and those building between Iceland and Greenland fight for supremacy, and play games with us. We usually take a rest day here, but let the weather pick the day rather than planning it.
Day 10–13: Clearing the highest ground, the wind normally settles and starts coming from the side as we move into the flattest part of the journey. The plains are fine and we cover great distances. In good weather DYE III shows on the horizon days out — coming and going, but a real help for navigation. We camp there and may take half a rest day: a look at the Cold War relic, then sleep, eat, drink and check the gear.
Day 14–20: Approaching the western side, we meet the first lakes filled by summer melt — frozen over, hopefully, but a sign of what's coming. The ice roughens as we lose altitude. We still do great distances, but the melt damage varies hugely year to year. A cold summer with early frost and snow can leave us a clear run to 70 km from land; a warm one, and the fight starts here, the ice like a stormy ocean frozen in an instant, sometimes with small rivers and slush. Hard work — and fascinating.
Day 21–25/30 (?): Exactly how many days is impossible to predict, and that's the greatness of the autumn crossing. If your mind can take one surprise after another without sinking, you know you're bred for bigger things. Dropping into the icefall, the streams grow into riverbeds 10–20 m wide — hopefully mostly drained by now, as the big plateau melt should have stopped. With land in sight we stretch the days, fighting through this maze of ice. A kilometre can take hours, but getting closer is its own reward — and stepping off the ice together is the biggest accomplishment of the trip. Here we repack into light boots and small packs; the skis and sledges are bundled for a helicopter pickup, which makes the last stretch a fairy-tale dessert.
Day 30–36: We trek down the valley over about three days — fishing, talking, thinking, letting it settle. So tied to the history, so many facets and challenges, the last days sharpen the sense of what we've come through. After three days and 50 km we reach the fjord, and a full coast-to-coast crossing is complete. The boat out to Nuuk is the first taste of civilisation; Nuuk is the second, and a big one.
The flight back to Copenhagen (again, for most) doesn't leave every day. Since we can't say whether we'll use 32 or 35 days, we recommend changeable tickets. Then home — letting the adventure settle, and wondering where to go next.
What's included
We do all the paperwork and cover the fees — applications, crossing permits, radio and communication, weapons — and pay the Search & Rescue. We supply food, sledges, tents, stoves, fuel, and safety equipment: Iridium satellite phone, emergency beacon, VHF radio, GPS units, InReach trackers, maps and waypoints. The two boat rides and the helicopter lift are included. We're responsible for the medical bag, spares and repair kit, plus a training weekend — and we'll answer any question you have.
What's not included
You bring your own personal clothing, skis, boots and poles, sleeping bag, mattress and stuff-sacks. You choose and pay for your own flights, and for board and lodging in the days right before and after the ice, and the training weekend. You must have your own travel / cancellation / medical evacuation insurance for personal accidents or injury. With food allergies or intolerances, you may be asked to help build your rations so we're sure your food is sufficient, safe and good quality. Unforeseen delays or a group change of plan can mean extra cost — we recommend changeable return tickets, or a wide margin at the end of the trip.
The price
The final price depends on when you book, confirm and pay. The later that is, the harder and more complex our logistics get — permits, team composition, guides, equipment to buy and ship — so the rates are tiered:
Paid in full before 1 February: TBA €
Paid 1 February to 20 March: TBA €
Paid in full after 20 March: TBA €
In any case, the fee must be paid in full no later than 90 days before departure (minus the deposit already paid). Allow for a 3–5% increase year on year.
The deposit
We send a Deposit Invoice of € 1 800 at booking. The booking form gives you a place in the queue — not binding in any way. It only becomes firm once you receive the Deposit Invoice. This is non-refundable under our Travel Conditions, but once paid, you're in and the trip is on. Final payment is due six months before the start, mid-February, or as detailed above.
All payments and deposits are subject to our travel terms and conditions.